Miami Spice

For his resort line, Karl Lagerfeld took over the pool at The Raleigh hotel in Miami with looks inspired by Brian Jones and “Last Year at Marienbad.”

MIAMI — With a lifeguard perched above the Raleigh pool and double-C logoed life preservers and beach balls scattered throughout, the Chanel cruise extravaganza was ready to kick off on Thursday night.

Those expecting “Miami Vice” pastels or even a touch of “Golden Girls” were in for a surprise, though. Karl Lagerfeld set the mood with an all-black start that was more Paris and New York than some of the world’s sunnier locales. But then cruise is about so much more than just a vacation wardrobe, and few know that better than Lagerfeld himself.

Rather than home in on one specific theme, Lagerfeld went in a few directions for cruise, from sleek black tuxedos to wide jackets and bell-bottom pants, metallic punk blazers, HotPants, plastic floral embellishments, bows and bow ties galore and the new way of reinterpreting the Chanel logo — inside a heart on minidresses, pale tie-dyed T-shirts and handbags.
“It’s all about proportions, cuts, volumes,” he said, pre-show. “There is not one line that is taken all through the collection. For cruise, you don’t do that. There are many looks and an attitude.”
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